With a screw driver I was able to scrape off the carbon deposits on the valves in question (see previous post). Then, with a combination of steel brushes, more screwdrivers, rags, and engine cleaners, I tried my best to remove the gasket material from the bottom of the cylinder head. I couldn't make it completely clean, but I made it as smooth as I could, and with a straight edge the bottom of the head did not seem warped.
So, Bopper, what failed on you almost five months ago in Southern Ohio, with me since averaging probably 3-6 hours a week working on you in any time since I could spare, is finally being replaced. It's time for your new head gasket!
As you can see in the picture and video below, I had previously exposed and cleaned the engine block and cylinder heads. I was worried that maybe a piston component had failed, but it appears not so.
And the culprit! Compare the old gasket to the new one, and notice the rip in the gasket between the #1 and #2 cylinder hole. I had a brief moment of minor annoyance when I saw that the gaskets were not exactly the same, but the two coolant pathways on the front of the old gasket don't lead to anything, as there no passage way for those holes on the head! See picture at top of post.
I bought some special gasket sealant spray from the auto parts store that contains bits of copper to improve heat transfer, which made the gasket a very pretty burnt orange look (Hook 'em Horns!). The gasket slipped right on the top of the engine block. Like a glove.
I took one last look at the cylinder and piston heads, said "It was good knowing you, but hopefully we don't have to meet again for a very long time." I put the cylinder head on carefully (it's a bit heavy!), put the 10 bolts in the slots, and tightened each one down in the correct order, carefully eventually torquing them up to 50 lbs in 10 lb steps.
Now I only have to install the carburetor, distributer, timing belts, water pump..... Twill still be a while before she's fired up again.
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